How to Choose a Cowboy Hat (Step by Step)

To choose a cowboy hat, first decide where you’ll wear it. Then measure your head and check your head shape, because fit comes before style.

After that, pick a material for your weather (straw usually works in heat, felt in cooler weather). Finally, choose a crown and brim style you like, and try it on to see how it looks on you.

Which Cowboy Hat Should You Choose

Here is where to start for each situation.

Step 1: Decide How You Will Use Your Cowboy Hat

Before you look at cowboy hats, think about where you’ll wear yours. That tells you what kind of hat makes sense for you.

Everyday wear. You’ll have it on for hours, so it needs to fit well and feel comfortable. If it’s hot where you live, pick one that doesn’t trap too much heat.

Ranch work and riding. You’ll be out in the sun, dust, and possibly rough weather. Look for a hat with enough brim to shade your face and one that can handle the conditions you’ll use it in.

Rodeos and festivals. You’ll be outside for hours, so consider the weather and choose a hat you won’t mind getting dirty or scuffed. 

Formal events and weddings. Here, appearance matters more. A felt cowboy hat in black, charcoal, or dark brown is a common choice for a dressier Western outfit.

If this is your first cowboy hat, don’t spend too much yet. You don’t know how much you’ll wear it, so just get a good one that fits and skip the extra features for now.

Step 2: Find Your Cowboy Hat Size

To find your cowboy hat size, measure around your head where the hat will sit. 

Wrap a soft measuring tape around your head, about a finger above your eyebrows and just above your ears. Keep the tape level all the way around, and don’t pull it too tight.

Write down the measurement, then enter it into the Hat Size Calculator to find your hat size in US, UK, or EU sizes.

For the full method, see this guide on how to measure your head for a hat size.

Cowboy Hat Size Chart

Hat sizes are based on your head circumference. Find the number closest to your measurement to see your hat size. Sizes can vary a little from brand to brand, so check the maker’s size chart before you buy.

If You Are Between Sizes

If your measurement falls between two sizes, choose the larger one. A hat that’s too small feels tight and uncomfortable after a while, and that’s hard to fix. A hat that’s a little loose is easy to fix.

Put some sizing tape (a thin foam strip) behind the sweatband inside the hat, and it will sit snugly.

Step 3: Check Your Head Shape

You have your size from Step 2. Now check your head shape, because two hats in the same size can fit very differently.

Size and Head Shape Are Not the Same Thing

Your hat size only tells you how far around your head is. It doesn’t tell you the shape. Hats are made over forms called blocks, and blocks come in different shapes: long oval, regular oval, and round oval.

A hat made on a longer block usually fits a longer head better, and one made on a rounder block fits a rounder head better.

How to Tell Your Head Shape

To tell your head shape, look at it from above. Sit down, pull your hair back, and ask a friend to take a photo straight down from over your head. 

Then compare the length (front to back) with the width (side to side). Your head will look like one of three shapes: regular oval, long oval, or round oval.

Regular Oval Head Shape

A regular oval head is a little longer from front to back than it is wide. It’s not as long and narrow as a long oval, and it’s not as round as a round oval.

Most cowboy hats come in a regular oval shape, so you’ll have plenty of options to try. Just make sure the hat fits your head without feeling too tight at the front, back, or sides.

Long Oval Head Shape

A long oval head is longer from front to back and narrower from side to side. From above, it looks stretched lengthwise. 

Try on a hat in your size. If it pinches your forehead and the back of your head but feels loose at the sides, you may need a long oval fit.

Ask the seller if they offer a long oval shape. Not every brand does.

Round Oval Head Shape

A round oval head is almost as wide as it is long. From above, it looks closer to a circle than a long, narrow oval.

If a cowboy hat feels tight at the sides but loose at the front and back, the hat’s shape may be too long for your head. Try a round oval fit instead.

How to Find a Hat That Fits Your Head Shape

To find a cowboy hat that fits your head shape, put on a hat in your size and notice where it feels tight. Tight at the front and back means you need a long oval fit. Tight at the sides means you need a round oval fit. If it feels even all around, you probably have the right shape.

If the hat is tight at the front and back, or at the sides, ask the seller if they have the same hat in a longer or rounder fit. If they don’t, try another brand.

Step 4: Choose the Material for Your Climate

Pick straw or palm leaf if you live somewhere hot. Felt is better for cooler weather. Wool felt costs less, while fur felt costs more but usually holds its shape longer. Leather is another option for mild or cool weather, but it can feel hot in summer.

Here’s how the four materials compare.

Straw and Palm Leaf Cowboy Hats

Straw and palm leaf hats are good in hot weather. Straw hats let air pass through the weave, but some are more breathable than others.

Palm leaf hats are often firmer and hold their shape well, so they’re a good option for everyday outdoor wear.

You can find affordable straw and palm leaf hats, so you don’t need to spend a lot on your first one. Just make sure it fits well, and the brim gives you enough shade. 

Wool Felt vs. Fur Felt Cowboy Hats

Wool felt is made from sheep’s wool. It’s warm and usually costs less than fur felt. The downside is that it can lose its shape over time, especially if it gets wet.

Fur felt is made from animal fur, usually rabbit, hare, or beaver. A good fur felt hat costs more, but it generally holds its shape better and lasts longer than wool felt.

If you don’t want to spend much on your first cowboy hat, wool felt is a good place to start. But if you plan to wear it often, a good fur felt hat may be worth the extra money.

Leather Cowboy Hats

Leather cowboy hats work better in mild or cool weather. They can feel hot in summer because leather doesn’t let much air through.

Stiff leather hats hold their shape better than soft ones. Some can also feel heavy, so check the weight before buying.

What the X Rating Means on Cowboy Hats

You may see cowboy hats marked 4X, 6X, 10X, or even higher. That’s the X rating.

The X rating was traditionally linked to how much beaver fur was used in a felt hat. A higher X rating usually means better quality when you’re comparing hats from the same brand.

Be careful, though. Brands don’t all use the X rating the same way, so a 6X hat from one brand may not be the same quality as a 6X hat from another.

So don’t choose a hat just because it has a higher X rating. Before you pay more for a higher number, ask the seller what fur is in the felt and how much.

For more on hat materials, read our guide to cowboy hat materials.

Step 5: Pick a Crown and Brim Style

Start with a Cattleman crown if you’re not sure. Then pick a brim width that fits your body size and gives you the shade you want. If you’re not familiar with the words crown and brim, check out our guide to cowboy hat parts.

Common Cowboy Hat Crown Styles

The crown is the top part of the hat that sits over your head. The Cattleman is the most common one, so it’s an easy place to start. You can see the other styles in the table below.

For every crown style in detail, see our guide to types of cowboy hats.

How Crown Height and Brim Width Change the Look

Crown height changes how tall the hat looks on you. A taller crown stands higher, while a shorter crown gives the hat a lower look. According to National Roper’s Supply (NRS), a Cattleman crown is usually 4.5 to 5 inches tall.

Brim width changes how big the hat looks on you and how much shade you get. A wider brim looks bigger and gives you more shade, while a narrower brim looks smaller and gives less shade.

In his Tack Talk video, Paul suggests a 3.25 to 3.5-inch brim for smaller people and a 4.25 to 4.5-inch brim for larger people. That’s his rule of thumb, so use it as a starting point rather than a fixed rule.

If You Do Not Know the Shape Names

You don’t need to know every cowboy hat shape by name. Shops and hat makers sometimes use different names for the same shape. 

If you see a cowboy hat you like, save a photo of it. Show it to the seller, or send it when you order online. They can help you find a similar shape, even if you don’t know what it’s called.

Step 6: Match the Hat to Your Face Shape and Body Size

The same hat can look different on different faces, so it helps to match the hat to yours.

In the same Tack Talk video, Paul says the crown should roughly match the shape of your face. For example, if you have a long, narrow face, he suggests a slightly narrower crown.

Treat everything below as ideas, not rules.

Cowboy Hat Shapes for Different Face Shapes

Here are a few cowboy hat shapes you can try based on your face shape.

Round Faces

If your face is almost as wide as it is long, with full cheeks and a round chin, you have a round face.

Try a cowboy hat with a taller crown, like a Cattleman or Gus. It can make your face look longer. Choose a brim that’s not too wide, with the sides turned up a little. 

Oval Faces

An oval face is a little longer than it is wide, with a round chin. Most cowboy hat styles can look good on an oval face.

A Cattleman crown is a good place to start, but Gus, Brick, and Pinch Front styles are also worth looking at. 

You have plenty of choice with brim widths too, so pick one that looks right on you.

Square Faces

If you have a wide forehead and a wide jaw with a square chin, you have a square face.

A Pinch Front cowboy hat can be a good choice. Look for one with a slightly curved brim instead of a flat one. This can help your face look a little less square. 

Long or Narrow Faces

A long face looks longer and thinner than an oval face, with less width around the cheeks. 

A cowboy hat with a shorter crown can be a good choice because it won’t make your face look even longer. A medium or wide brim can also work well. You might want to avoid very tall crowns if you don’t want to add more height to your face. 

Not sure what your face shape is? Use our face shape calculator to find out. 

Your body size matters too. If you’re small or have narrow shoulders, a very wide brim might look too big on you. 

If you’re tall or have broad shoulders, a wider brim may look better. These are just starting points, so check how the whole hat looks on you in a mirror.

These face shape tips work for both men and women. You don’t need a different crown shape just because you’re buying a men’s or women’s cowboy hat. Start with the shape you like, then check that it fits your head.

Step 7: Choose a Cowboy Hat Color

Choose a cowboy hat color that goes with the clothes you usually wear. If you’re buying your first hat, black, brown, and tan are good options. 

Neutral Colors for a First Hat

Black goes well with dark clothes and can also look good with blue jeans. It’s a good choice for both casual and dressier outfits.

Brown works well with jeans and boots, while tan looks good with lighter clothes.

Your hat doesn’t have to match your boots or belt exactly. Just choose a color that goes well with your clothes.

Silverbelly and Other Light Colors

If you want a light-colored cowboy hat, silverbelly, white, and cream are good choices. Silverbelly is a light mix of gray and beige. It’s a common color for felt cowboy hats.

These colors go well with jeans and many shirts. Light hats show dirt more easily, so keep that in mind if you work outdoors. 

Step 8: Set Your Budget

You don’t need to spend hundreds of dollars on your first cowboy hat. How much you should spend depends on how often you’ll wear it and what you’ll use it for. 

Cowboy Hat Price Tiers

Cowboy hat prices vary by brand, material, and quality. These are rough ranges, and prices change, so check the current price before you buy.

If you only wear your cowboy hat once in a while, you don’t need to spend much. But if you wear it every day, work outdoors, or ride horses, spending more on a good-quality hat may be worth it.

Why Good Cowboy Hats Cost So Much

A good cowboy hat can cost more for two reasons: the materials used and how the hat is made. 

The materials. Fur felt usually costs more than wool felt. Hats made with beaver fur also tend to cost more than those made with rabbit fur. Good fur felt holds its shape well and can resist water. 

How it’s made. Shaping a cowboy hat by hand takes time, especially the crown and brim. Many felt hats also have a leather sweatband inside, where the hat touches your head. Some have a satin lining too. That extra work adds to the price.

Step 9: Try It On and Check the Fit

Once you’ve picked a cowboy hat you like, check how it fits before you buy. 

Put it on straight. Don’t push it back or pull it down, let it sit level. 

Then feel the band inside. It should touch your forehead all the way across, with no gaps, and it shouldn’t squeeze.

Now shake your head a little. If the hat flips or falls off, it’s too loose. After that, wear it for a few minutes and take it off. If you see a red mark on your forehead, it’s too tight, so try another size or shape.

Felt can feel a little tight at first and loosen up as you wear it. Still, don’t buy a tight hat and hope it stretches, because not every hat does.

If you’re buying online, you can’t try it on. Measure your head first, then use the size chart on the brand’s own website, because sizes change from brand to brand. Check the return policy before you order.